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  • Writer's pictureKatrina Dutt

They're Hedonists Here

The smoke curls out of her cigarette and slowly intertwines with the steam from her cafe con leche. It’s backlit perfectly to illuminate the particles dancing together in the mid-morning sun. The light hits my own cafe con leche from the side, casting long shadows toward me. It’s a sunny and warm mid-October day that I’m savoring because I know that all too soon, it’ll be cold, gray, and wet. So, today I’m sitting on the terrace enjoying the warmth and verdant views of Northern Spain.

I take a small sip off the top of my coffee and just the foam washes into my mouth in a cloud of bubbles. Savoring this first sip is my favorite way to begin. Then, I take a sip of the strong and milky brew and I’m reminded of why I love living in Spain: they make coffee just the way I like it. The moderately-sized, not-too-much-coffee-in-my-coffee cafe con leche is the perfect ritual to re-center me at any time. I particularly like this cafe because they give you a small square of cake with your coffee. Today’s cake is a little dry, but I’m still considering ordering another coffee just so I can have another piece. After this and the free tapas that come with your drink in Almería, I can confidently say that there’s nothing better than feeling like you've gotten something for free.

As I try to make my unusually large coffee (by Spanish standards) last an hour, I delight in watching the other patrons leisurely enjoying their breaks: a gray-haired group of cyclists, a chattering group of ladies, and a woman sitting with her two greyhounds and cigarette. There’s a lively energy to the place that surprises me, seeing as it’s located in a small village. But as I experience more of Spain, I’m learning that communities stand strong here. A culture built on the simple and important things in life, such as enjoying a reasonably-priced coffee with friends, is a culture that I want to be a part of. Spaniards sure know how to live a good life, and I’d even go so as to say that they’re hedonists here.


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